RC Engine Run-In / Break-In
Im not an expert here. just wanna share how i do it and provide why i do it. Check the picture above, all the necessary equipments are there. Josh Cyrul Engine Break-In 101.
The video is just a sample of how i do engine run-in. Wide Open Throttle Style!
To get the video and reason why ….
Original article at CEFX Cyrul Engineering FX
The reasoning behind this break-in procedure is that there is always a large volume of fuel flowing through the engine. Large volume of fuel means plenty of oil and lubrication for the break in process. This also helps flush out any burrs or small pieces of material that may have been left over from the manufacturing of the engine. Also, the engine has a load placed on it by trying to cycle all of the fuel through it – somewhat similar to the load that you will put on it out on the track when you try to power your car around the track. Last, the engine is broke in with rpm – if you break the engine in at idle then you will not be seating the piston, sleeve, and connecting rod at anywhere near the rpm that it will have to be ready for out on the race track
Please RATE this info, if its useful to you 
[ratings]
Related post: STS Engine Tuning Info
19 Responses to “RC Engine Run-In / Break-In”
By dracy69 on Dec 15, 2006 | Reply
well, id personally do the heat cycling while driving it on pavement. ive had good luck with that process. and its more amusing….ya know.
By jfc_tech on Dec 15, 2006 | Reply
yea… i do that too. my old S-25 i did like 10 tanks idling. thats one big kahuna savage tank. OMG! lucky it still alive till now. i wonder which technique not good then… interesting.
By linkadrip on Jan 16, 2007 | Reply
Yes sounds like the way i have been doing it. But i have been opening it up alot more then just once. i start it let it warm up then drive it and open the throttle several times at least three two four times in a run. then my battery dies before i get through the tank so i shut it off and go charge my battery. and it cools off. and then i go back and do it agin till the tank runs dry.
And then i park it and let it cool and do it again. Seems to have worked very well for all my rc engines. No problems yet and my tmaxx has had at least 10 gallons through it and it still screams.
So the STS D30M engine should have no issues. Just following the Manual.
By jfc_tech on Jan 16, 2007 | Reply
great! i like this WOT style. it so fast.. it drain my 3 tanks in a few minutes only. and up to now, my sts 21B still got the compression like a “pop” when u turn the flywheel. damn good.
sts .30M = this engine hasn’t reached our shore yet.. but my sts 28 still kicking and still pulling hard.. so i wont be missing a lot, i guess. but if it ever reached our shore, i will definitely order one!
By linkadrip on Jan 18, 2007 | Reply
I’m sure it will get there. Its relatively a new engine. But like you say your probably not missing much. All i know is i have ran a quart through the engine and now i’m starting to lean it out a little and it is very powerfull and fast kinda scary. i have never had anything as fast of powerfull as this. and i havent even hit second gear yet.
But breaking in the engine buy this method seems to be the best i think. at least this way your fuel doesnt goto waste and you get to have some fun at the same time and that’s what it should be about it’s all entertainment.
I have seen static methods of break in and it just seems like a waste of money and time and there is no enjoyment in the process.IMO
By macnkitty2002 on Jan 25, 2007 | Reply
wow, ok. i might have try this, once i seem some sense in it. haha
By jfc_tech on Jan 28, 2007 | Reply
This i have to say to all. Some may agree or not but the fact is that it works. I’ve tried with 2 STS engine, 21B & 28M. Both with extra pinch at the top. burnt my Thunder tiger starter box motor at 1st few press. thats pinch and compression. With STS specifically said to take your time at the engine run-in and pampered it so to prolong the life of the engine. I for one go ahead with this WOT style. and to guaranteed that it works and my engine still with lots of compression with popping sound on turning the flywheel. One thing i did same is only after 10 tanks then only i tune for racing. I’m not in any way associated with Josh Cyrul but i believe in him and the “why” he did his way. Ok, my son’s name is Josh too.
By brian on Oct 4, 2007 | Reply
Hi i was wondering if someone can tell me in detail how you break in your engine the Wide Open Throttle Style because i tried it by putting my high needle at max rich but it would’nt do it on my sts 30.
By hustla on May 3, 2008 | Reply
how do i drain my engine? when i first got my car it started but i did not break the engine in. the car stopped after a 2 mins of playn then i started again it stopped after about 5 mins then i put it away i tried the next day and it did not start i tried again after 30 mins it started i turned it of i went do something then when i come back its not starting what so ever i tried all day now i think the engine is flooded because the pull start is hard to pull so can any 1 help me plz the make of my car is cen racing, talon nx i need to also no y it does nt start
By webmaster on May 3, 2008 | Reply
Brian, sorry for the later reply. Hope this answer all the questions.
Making the high needle too open or rich will not make your engine start. that is for sure. You have to tune it to start first then slowly turning it out richer. always to be safe open one full turn from the default. this ensure richer setting.
My style is on this sts 21B is to tune it 2 full turn open thats a guaranteed richer when i pull the throttle full wide open. the video proves that the tire did not even turn. Thats a full rpm with enough lubrication and yet working the inner mating of the piston and sleeve at around 80 to 90 deg celcius. when shutting down. turn it close or clockwise about 10 minutes. slowly closing the needle.
I have done it and it proves what Josh Cyrul said is true. My sts 21B till to this day still tight with compression and it idle forever with the correct low needle setting. Change the conrod for best longer durability after the break-in. Good luck, Brian.
By webmaster on May 3, 2008 | Reply
hustla, thanks for dropping a comment here.
Well I believe your engine is running rich and due to not broken in properly.. it will be tough to start. Usually what I do is to run the engine till it out of fuel. this ensure no unburn fuel inside. I use after-run oil too. this ensure the engine wont get rust and properly protected whenever I do run it.
Whatever it is, Please visit http://cenracing.com for more info on yer ride.
Good luck
By hustla on May 3, 2008 | Reply
thankz for the info boyz but i cant evan get it started. do you think that the car is messed up? plus i cant get the feul out of the engine how do i do that coz the engine is flooded nd its not comeing out via tilting it upside down. nd the car was already tuned to normal settings it said ready to run on the box . wen i got it wich was about 3 days ago it started with no adjusments to anything but now it looks as if has given up on me i hav not evan had a day of fun and it costed me 300$ do you think it can be fixed. or do u think i should jus get a new 1?
By webmaster on May 3, 2008 | Reply
I think it can be fixed. What do you mean the fuel not coming out even after you till it upside down? Take out the air filter and open the carburetor.. the fuel definitely will come out from there.
either the glow plug busted, change it to new to dismiss this. It will start for sure.
By hustla on May 4, 2008 | Reply
right i have got it started now but first i used 16% nitro but it finished so when i went to get more they onli had 20% heli niroe would that efect my engine also it lets out loads of smoke and when i was playing with it it wouldnt work with low rpm i had to push the throtle half way and hold it their for a few seconds then when its moving its ok. but i tried to sort it out by adjusting the screw wich is attatched to the engine near the feul pipe and it just automaticly revin full the wheels are spining ful speed with out me evan pushin the throtle and evan when i put the screw back to wheir it was it stilll does the same how can i sort this out now and i reali apericate u helpin me nice1.
By webmaster on May 5, 2008 | Reply
Wahhhh hustla, Heli Nitro???? Thats totally different fuel and not for rc car.
You have to adjust the idle needle so the engine still ‘alive’ but not that high rpm to make it run.
Is this the one you talking about, Cen Talon NX???
By hustla on May 5, 2008 | Reply
yes that is the car is it any good?
By webmaster on May 6, 2008 | Reply
Not bad at all. The engine quite powerful, Hustla. You should read back the engine manual. Use the proper, real rc fuel and not heli fuel.