Enjoy and absorb it

Source: NeoBuggy.net

We thought they never appear again after we read the news from our RC Partner Buggy-Sports.Info here about they going to close and sell everything!

My loss your gain. EBMods is going out of Business and looking to sell off all the equipment and tooling. Please contact me direct at EBMods@aol.com or call the shop 570-719-1012

Thanks for all the support,
Ed Bridges

Congrats to Ed Bridges of EBMod.com that it is just a temporary glitch on their domestic obstacles.

Sorry everyone, I should of never posted what I did until I knew for sure. I had a few family issues pop up that made things very tough. I guess I just lost my mind for a few days with the added stress …

See, how awesome this pipe is! This means EBMods is serious in giving the best to us all. The new cool EBMods 926 Tuned Pipes for the V-Spec’s which will be available soon, shows that they are back in the game and more drivers will be using their products for sure. The Tuned Pipes are all EFRA Legal 3 Chamber Pipes with Black Hard Coat.

Source: Buggy-Sports.Info | EBMods

This new [tag]STS modded engine[/tag] has been the hot topic in a few forums and website. So we think it is wise to post this info here for those who still does not know what is this STS engine all about. We posted earlier the stock [tag]STS D21T MKII[/tag] here.

Here, info provided by arghh from RCTech Forum:

[tag]RBMods.Net[/tag]

[tag]D21T MKII – COMPETITION BUGGY ENGINE[/tag] *RBmodded
$289.99
D21T MK II (#2113)
Buggy Team Engine
Cylinder Contents : 3.48cc
Bore: 16.20mm / Stroke:16.80mm
Crankshaft : 14mm SG type
Carburetor : 2 Needles Slide 7&8 mm*
Piston / Sleeve : ABC 5P modified
Glow-plug : Turbo & Standard**
Use : 1/8 buggy
Manual Download
Custom Made Team Engine

* 7mm and 8mm venturis included
** one standard head button and one turbo head button included

Message from Rick Brake of RBmods.net :

History and the making of a new STS MK11 engine. When testing the D21B and D21T engines my preliminary diagnosis led me to study these engines in depth and have my drivers testing them.

Everything I thought the engine would do was correct, These were great engines for the price but I thought STS could do a little better with the same amount of effort. So after a few emails and sending them pictures on what to do if I were them they came out with a engine after my own spec’s. They actually produced a great engine that would give these 400.00 and 500.00 dollar
engines a run for their money. This was dubbed STS MK11. My drivers have been testing it and found that it was able to keep up and even surpass these high dollar Italian engine with the grace of a expensive .21 5 to 8 port engines and get about 9 minutes of run time doing it.

As I watched the testing this engine had taken a buggy and was pulling wheelies up to 75ft down the straights with a crisp sound that I and you and everyone else likes to hear at 202 degree temps. I had thought that it was time STS release these to the market to compete against the ever soaring over priced Italian engines.

Finally! You to can have this engine and feel the bliss of knowing you got way more then you paid for and probably for the first time. These engines are worth every penny. Modified they are off the hook, Smooth, powerful, reliable.
Rick Brake RBMods

Extreme Engine Mod by Rick Brake of RBmods.net

Here’s just a few details of what you get with this mod:

1) A High Efficient mod with timing and firing pattern’s re-established.

2) Crank boring, induction ports sharpened.

3) Sleeve sculptured to maintain velocity produced by crank at lower RPM throughout the power band.

4) Crank is cut for turbo charging the fuel/air mix.

5) Pressure release cuts made for an easier transitioning between power stroke and exhaust stroke.

6) RBmods replaces the factory front engine bearing with a special high precision bearing to handle the added RPM from the mod.

7) ***NEW** RBmods goes above and beyond… Crank Hardening and Rust Proofing.
A reverse osmosis procedure bringing you the best of all the other mods out on the market, Yes sir we have come full circle with this
one folks. Just take a look at the picture attached Notice how some engines loose power and start acting up after some of the
nasty fuels we use? It is the crank rusting up and sending rust particles through your engine, Of coarse you know this would have a adverse affect we all do not want. Dr. Rick has come up with the cure and better yet without raising the prices.

Enjoy and have a great day. Rick RBMods

Many other things are done to the engine but RBmods can not give all their secrets ;0)

Please visit Rick at RBMods.net for more info.

His explanation starts here:

Here are the specs of the conversion, which is still a work in progress. Improvements are comming soon.

The conversion is relatively easy. The center diff is in the stock location, with the diff flipped 180 degrees. THe motor mount is made from two layers of 3mm carbon fiber and bolted to the center diff tower and chassis. The servo is mounted in what’s left of the stock radio tray. The battery is held in by a heavy duty Velcro strap with bumpers on both sides to keep it in the car and out of the gears. A Velcro bed helps keep the pack in place also.

The result is actually a car that is balanced pretty well side to side, with a little more front bias that a nitro. That can be adjusted a little by shifting the battery placement.

Motor: [tag]Neu Motors 1512[/tag] 1.5Y finned can, geared 14/46-16/46.
ESC: [tag]Mamba Max[/tag], with the BEC disabled and using an separate bec device.
Battery: 4s 8000mah lithium pack made from Maxamps 4000mah cells.
Pinion gears are from various sources, and I use plastic center gears from Kyosho and HPI.

I also use a fans for the esc and motor as needed in the summer. No fans were needed in the video… it was about 40*F at the track that day. In the video I actually had a 1515 2.5D in the car geared 16/46. But it runs just as well with the 1512.

The car clocks mid 30′s geaed for the track as in the video, and hits 45mph with the 1512 geared 18/46.

Runtime is incredible as typical 5 min heat, with a few warm up laps is only using about 1500-1700mah according to the charger I use. With the 8000mah pack it will make a 30 minute main without a problem.

I am working on a new battery mounting system and new one-piece 7075 CNC motor mounts. If anyone is interested I should have some soon.

The cool video. Check the green body. Thats [tag]LOSI 8 buggy[/tag] with Clear Concepts Brushless Mod!

[ratings]

Dustin Peckham can be contacted direct at peckahm@mchsi.com

Related post: Custom Brushless buggy by Joeling | Non Nitro [tag]Rock Crawler[/tag] Pimp Cane Chassis

WheelNut
Tech Master
1,522 Posts Since Jan 2003

After seeing this new option part for the S204 Impreza STI. There is on that goes in the trunk and one that goes on the front lower subframe. It is basically a super stiff damper that smooths out flex movements in the chassis of the car. Supposedly makes the car easier to drive and more stable.

http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg….5_1934_10084482

So I figured why not try this on my XB8? After all chassis flex is a tuning option that is often messed with and has a large effect on the way a car handles I think this may make a difference in the way the car feels. Many people run the XB8 with no rear chassis brace at all (Yannick for one) I think the car will be relatively safe on a normal track, for supercross tracks I’ll add the plastic brace. Since the chassis is basically a big spring after all, but there is no damping at all for it, so any oscillations go unchecked. I doubt there is much going on in the way of spring back motion, you never know since after all you can’t see that kind of detail while driving.

The damper is RC10GT shock body with a Savage shock shaft, #3 pistons and 30k oil (currently). From hand testing I’ve measured a full centimeter of travel from full compression to full extension. The shock doesnt really interfere with anything on the car besides the throttle link, which is easy enough to remedy. I will also try out some thicker oils as 30k seems a tad soft, mabye some 100k, or some #1 pistons w/30k oil.

I won’t be able to test this setup until March 1st though, so it will be a while before I can see what it does.

It was quite easy to install this as well, just drilled a hole in the rear body mount (highest point, so the damper will receive maximum travel) and flipped the centre diff brace front to rear then used the hole for the fuel filter to mount the ball stud. I also weighed this setup, its about 20g heaveir than the stock aluminum brace w/screws.

My 2 cents on this:
Its a very innovative and its really simple. I just bang my head of why i didn’t think this before. But if you think it more… there’s one think that you may want to consider before applying this. YOU HAVE TO USE THE OPTIONAL ENGINE MOUNT(for example like the X1CR “Z Brace”) WITH THE EXTRA LENGTH OF THE MOUNT. If not, when the chassis flex, compressed, the clutch bell and spur will be in trouble. but whatever it is. I still salute WheelNut for thinking of it. Cool stuff!!!

[ratings]

Original source: WheelNut Idea from Subaru