Archive for the ‘STS’ Category
Wednesday, November 21st, 2007 | 791 views
We just found out about this S21T Buggy Engine meant to be the contender for 2008 races. It is a very interesting new design especially on the head. We talked about the STS D21T MKII RBmod and we thought it is the same. It is not. It is a new design indeed. The crankshaft is different, the head obviously, and even the porting on the sleeves are different. So check it out here.
S21T BUGGY ENGINE (#2121)
Type : rear exhaust without pull-start
Cylinder Contents : 3.5cc
Bore : 16.68mm / Stroke:16.00mm
Crankshaft : 14mm SG type
Carburetor : 2 Needles Slide 7~9 mm
Piston / Sleeve : ABC 5P
Glow-plug : Turbo
Source: Buggy-Sport.Info | More at STS Racing Taiwan
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Popularity: 36%
Posted in D21T, STS | No Comments »
Friday, October 19th, 2007 | 451 views
This is the engine we have been waiting for, The STS D28 Pro, 5 ports engine. Built specifically for the RC Truggy Class. We heard about it before but nothing solid and thank goodness only recently it is official as per Taiwan STS Racing website announced. Here the specification and a few shots.
D28Pro (#2809)
Professional Truggy Engine
- Type : rear exhaust without pull-start
- Cylinder Contents : 4.66cc
- Bore : 18.80mm / Stroke:16.80mm
- Crankshaft : 14mm SG type
- Carburetor : 2 Needles Slide 9 mm
- Piston / Sleeve : ABC 5P
- Glow-plug : Standard
Source: STS Racing Taiwan | Friend: Ah Kim aka Arghh
Popularity: 38%
Posted in D28Pro, RC Truggy, STS | No Comments »
Sunday, May 27th, 2007 | 1,500 views
This new STS modded engine has been the hot topic in a few forums and website. So we think it is wise to post this info here for those who still does not know what is this STS engine all about. We posted earlier the stock STS D21T MKII here.
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Popularity: 66%
Technorati Tags: STS modded engine, STS D21T MKII
Posted in Engine MOD, STS | No Comments »
Saturday, May 26th, 2007 | 451 views
We just found out about this that Racernine.com is no longer carrying the STS Racing Engine Products at their website. It is still not confirmed yet but somehow their STS Page is no longer available. Error 404 - Not Found!
this is a RDChampion page. Check the STS dealer logo.
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Popularity: 46%
Technorati Tags: STS Racing Engine Products
Posted in RC Engine, STS | 1 Comment »
Sunday, May 20th, 2007 | 1,776 views
We just found out about this New STS Racing engine. The STS D21T MKII. It’s a Custom Made Team Engine!
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Popularity: 52%
Technorati Tags: STS D21T MKII, Custom Made Team Engine
Posted in RC Engine, STS | 3 Comments »
Saturday, March 31st, 2007 | 1,219 views
Update on the Fioroni Turbo Sliding Clutch:
Well, had a bash around with the HPI Savage today. The engine is tuned and the power is awesome. The Fioroni clutch exhibits awesome bite now and the truck pulls power wheelies with very little provocation. There is no clutch fade and the power-band is so aggressive and broad with the STS D30M, that extreme care has to be taken at all times not to put the truck on it’s lid.
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Popularity: 58%
Technorati Tags: Fioroni Turbo Sliding Clutch, HPI Savage, STS D30M
Posted in Fioroni Clutch, Horatio, Monster Truck, STS, Savage | No Comments »
Friday, March 16th, 2007 | 945 views
Horatio(rctech) did it again. Here they are, the inside review of this awesome engine STS D30M and of course onto the indestructible HPI Savage.
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Popularity: 51%
Technorati Tags: Horatio, STS D30M, HPI Savage
Posted in Horatio, Monster Truck, RC Engine, STS, Savage | No Comments »
Monday, February 19th, 2007 | 332 views
Well, I’ve run about 7 tanks of fuel through the D.30 now. I’m leaning the needles to a point where I can blast the Savage around, but the throttling is still rough at this stage with the needles set rich. The engine runs cool on the 25% O’Donnell fuel. The pullstart has been very reliable and the engine starts very easily. I’m not a fan of pullstarts and I will ‘upgrade’ to a roto backplate in due course, but the pullstart is pretty rugged thus far.
The engine was nice and tight when I got it, but not so tight as typical competition engines. The engine is eager to start and stays running even while warming up. The piston never once got stuck at TDC, even during the first couple of tanks.
The Power delivery of the D .30 is very agressive to say the least and even with the needles set rich, the engine hauls the Savage around very rapidly on 18/49 gearing. And it’s very loud on the Ribbed exhaust. As in ‘very’. The engine is showing early promise and it’s going to be a screamer, without a doubt. Cue dremmel, stage right……
The Fioroni Turbo Slider is working, but the shoes are slipping slightly. It may need some bedding in, but so far the clutch doesn’t have enough ‘grab’ to lift the front wheels. Unlike my stock 3 shoe clutch
I have a small piece of silicon fuel tubing slipped over the TVP on the right side to protect the edge of the STS engine and the header pipe. It works a treat. It’s something I’ve always done with my Savage.
While I’m running the D .30 rich, I will say it consumes fuel at an almost alarming rate……roll on the time when I can set the needles to optimum settings.
More updates to follow….
(2 votes, average: 2.5 out of 5)
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Related post: Part II, Initial review
Popularity: 36%
Posted in RC Engine, STS, Savage | No Comments »
Thursday, February 15th, 2007 | 956 views
Horatio second update on the STS 30M
STS D.30 update:
Well, the STS .D30 is very similar in size to most NS series engines. It fits in the stock engine mount without too much drama. However, I did need to relieve the inside edges of the engine mounts so that it fitted the STS .D30 crank case.
I left the head shims in place for the break-in/running-in period. I checked the main needle position, closed it off gradually - whilst blowing down a scrap piece of fuel line - until the main needle was shut off. I opened it 3 turns from this position. Note - I didn’t crank it all the way down till it couldn’t physically move anymore! That’s not my definition of ‘closed’ for any main needle, which at the end of the day is a precision metering device.
A lot has been said about the STS factory needle position already, with certain people even arguing with respected dealers like Ryan. At the end of the day, the exact number of turns is arbitrary anyway. But you do need to find a rough ball-park starting point. 3 turns open from the shut off point is a good place to start for most engines.
Before I could start the engine, I needed to install it into the truck with my choice of clutch - the Fioroni Turbo Slider, with carbon shoes. The flywheel was actually designed for Kyosho buggies, so there was an element of doubt whether it would actually be compatible with the HPI Savage. Most people use Mugen size flywheel. But I figured a work around, and so far it seems ok. The holes in the engine mounting plate had to be enlarged slightly to move the engine rearward slightly.
Clearance between the clutch bell and the 49t spur is minimal using the Fioroni set up, but so be it. I should be using a 46t spur anyway!!
After installation, I needed to adjust the linkage to the carb and make a slight bend as well. I also needed to physically remove the servo horn and adjust it accordingly. The brake linkage needed adjustment and both the sub-trim and EPA needed to be re-set on the radio. This is due to the different carb, and the slightly larger slide travel compared to the old NS .25 engine. Nothing too taxing here, but worth noting.
The engine started firing on the second pull after ‘priming’, but the engine was far too rich to stay running, even with the glow starter attached. The engine sprang into life after I turned the main needle in about 1/2 a turn. I warmed the engine for about 2 minutes, then blipped the throttle and removed the glow. I ran 3 tanks through, with the Savage lifted clear off the ground.
I’ll finish off the initial running tomorrow!!
(2 votes, average: 5 out of 5)
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Related post: Horatio on STS: - Initial review | Other STS review, videos & tips
Popularity: 50%
Technorati Tags: Horatio, STS 30M, Fioroni Turbo Slider, Kyosho, HPI Savage, Mugen
Posted in Horatio, Monster Truck, RC Engine, STS, Savage | 2 Comments »
Saturday, February 10th, 2007 | 1,614 views
webmaster note:Yes, found this post in the rctech about STS D30M engine. Thanks to Horatio, this post should be in this blog. So i posted on his behalf.
On the subject of STS……..
I decided to have a good look at my new engine. Now there’s been a fair bit of hype surrounding these engines, not just the MT engines but the TC and buggy engines too. After some initial niggles, it soon became clear that these engines perform extremely well at about half the price of typical competition engines.
The engine I received came protected in a vacuum sealed bag within a very nice foam-packed box. The excellent instructions cover all the important things in a very concise way, with some occasional ‘quaint’ English thrown in, just to amuse us!
Here in the UK, most of us have had a fair bit of snow over night, so running in at this stage isn’t a good idea. Instead, I stripped and checked my STS D.30’s internal parts.
All I can say is - WOW. Bear in mind I’ve had lots of decent engines in my time, so I’m not easily impressed. But this engine is so well made, it’s almost too good to be true. The quality of the casting is first class. The inside of the case was perfectly clean, properly lubed with absolutely no sign of rust or even the merest blemish on the crank or the knife-edged con-rod. 10/10.
This is one of those engines that you could fire-up straight away, without any need to flush or clean first. Much like OS quality in terms of finish.
The carb isn’t quite as good as an OS, nor would you really expect it to be. It’s a little bit sticky at the closed side, but presumably this will soon be eliminated with use, once everything has had a chance to bed-in. Otherwise, the needles, slide, spray bar and carb body look very nicely made.
The screws all needed a little torque to pinch them up, so I decided to de-grease them and apply some thread lock. I did this on the back plate and also on the pullstart assembly. As the plastic on the pullstart is potentially incompatible with solvents present in the thread lock, I ensured the thread lock was put only into the holes of the alloy casing, therefore eliminating any contact between the plastic and the thread lock.
The button head comes supplied with what looks like a 0.1mm and a 0.3mm head shim. After run-in, I’ll probably stick with just the 0.3 shim on 25% fuel.
Remember the problems I had with my trusty S 25 when I first inspected it? Looks like Nitro Star could use a few lessons from the engineers at STS. And the K 4.6 - remember the interesting ‘pitted’ piston that they came supplied with in many cases? Both engines cost about the same. Hmmm.
This is all well and good, but the proof of the pudding is in the eating!! I’ll keep you updated with how the engine break-in goes. In the meantime, I need to get hold of the STS .21 Tuned in-line pipe/manifold and the Fioroni Turbo Slider clutch. More £££.
Just added, New tuned pipe for D.28 and D.30 engines will be available 12th Feb, #0702.
(1 votes, average: 5 out of 5)
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Related post: STS Archives, Monster Truck category
Popularity: 54%
Technorati Tags: STS D30M, MT, buggy engines, button head, head shim, Nitro Star, STS .21, Tuned in-line pipe/manifold, Fioroni Turbo Slider clutch
Posted in Horatio, Monster Truck, RC Engine, STS, Savage | No Comments »
Saturday, February 3rd, 2007 | 763 views
It is all about this great engine from Taiwan. STS engine from 21B, 21T, 21E, D28M to D30M. people been asking what engine to get, whats the difference. You can check here STS Archive category to get the glimpse of what you getting into when buying either one. It still lack of 21E report though. I wish someone provide me with this info. I know it saves fuel. In a 10 minutes qualifying, one does not have to come to pit to refuel. How cool and important is that!!!!. Less pit stop means more time on the track to better your qualifying record. So, if you got this engine, pls let me know. Thanks.
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Popularity: 31%
Technorati Tags: Taiwan, STS engine, 21B, 21T, 21E, D28M, D30M
Posted in RC Engine, STS | No Comments »
Monday, January 22nd, 2007 | 446 views
(1 votes, average: 5 out of 5)
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Thanks to Dennis “2D” Adams aka 2DMaxLST, from rctech and LSTforums, this engine comes to the spotlight again. Somehow, this STS 21T engine seems to belong to the right people destined to be on the podium, aHa! Just check the porting work. It comes out of box like that and its not expensive at all. Well done to STS Taiwan.
click for more pictures…
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Popularity: 41%
Posted in LST, Muggy, RC Engine, STS | 1 Comment »
Sunday, January 21st, 2007 | 1,241 views
(2 votes, average: 2.5 out of 5)
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Another STS 30 video done by Maximo(supertib). The beast unleased. Tweaked to the MAX!
click for 3 speed savage!
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Popularity: 65%
Posted in Engine MOD, HPI Racing, LST, Monster Truck, RC Engine, RC video, STS, Savage | 9 Comments »
Tuesday, January 16th, 2007 | 320 views
(2 votes, average: 3.5 out of 5)
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The best of STS in offroad style. The STS .21T, Custom Team engine.With its green head, it can’t be mistaken for anything else. It not only screams at top end..it also has tons of torque!. This is not for newbie. This is for serious racer who wants nothing else but pure performance. I know this engine been out for awhile but i just got to post it here again. You may have other expensive italian made engine, but you just can’t ignore this beast. I can only say from many posts that read in the rctech and other forums, that this engine not only at par with other expensive engine, eg. the italian origin, it also passed them on the straight!.
details:
D21T (#2103)
Buggy Team Engine
Cylinder Contents : 3.48cc
Bore: 16.20mm / Stroke:16.80mm
Crankshaft : 14mm SG type
Carburetor : 2 Needles Slide 8 mm
Piston / Sleeve : ABC 5P
Glow-plug : Turbo
Use : 1/8 buggy
Click to hear what other racers and modders said, their testimonial…
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Popularity: 22%
Technorati Tags: STS, Custom Team engine
Posted in RC Engine, STS | No Comments »
Monday, January 8th, 2007 | 5,930 views
(4 votes, average: 2.5 out of 5)
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This STS D30M engine has not reached our shore yet, but the power already! Hahaha. I’ve been hearing people lose their spur just by one pull of the trigger, worn out carbon clutch and many more. I just cant wait to get it on my truggy. see whether it can wheelie my truggy or not. Hahaha.
For testimonial and video…
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Popularity: 65%
Technorati Tags: STS D30M, truggy
Posted in RC Engine, RC video, STS, Savage | 19 Comments »
Friday, December 8th, 2006 | 2,525 views
Im not an expert here. just wanna share how i do it and provide why i do it. Check the picture above, all the necessary equipments are there. Josh Cyrul Engine Break-In 101.
The video is just a sample of how i do engine run-in. Wide Open Throttle Style!
To get the video and reason why ….
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Popularity: 35%
Posted in RC Engine, RC video, Rc News, STS | 19 Comments »
Wednesday, September 13th, 2006 | 384 views
STS engine D28M / 21B
This is the engine I won the O’Donnell Off-road Championship with. What is interesting is that through a broken diff that was binding the drive train at a big race, I had what seemed like no power, so I kept telling my pit man to lean it out ( main event ) and he did so… until it got very hot indeed. It got up to over 400 degrees and was still running well. We thought it would have trashed the engine but we were wrong. With NO rebuild at all, that is the very same motor that won the O’Donnell. Now that same motor has won AGAIN, the RD Logics Off-road Championships in the Expert Truggy Class. These motors are so well made and such quality it is just amazing.
Quote from racernine driver
D28M (#2801*)
Monster Truck Engine
Cylinder Contents 4.66cc
Bore: 18.80mm / Stroke:16.80mm
Crankshaft : 14mm SG type
Carburetor: 2 Needles Slide 9 mm
Piston / Sleeve: ABC 3P
Glow-plug : Standard
Use : 1/8 buggy;1/8 Monster Truck
#2801 Pull-Start Version*
#2804 Shaft-Start Version
#2805 Standard Version
http://www.stsrc.com.tw/28engines.php
D21B (#2101)
Buggy Competition Engine
Cylinder Contents : 3.48cc
Bore: 16.20mm / Stroke:16.80mm
Crankshaft : 14mm SG type
Carburetor : 2 Needles Slide 8 mm
Piston / Sleeve : ABC 5P
Glow-plug : Standard / Turbo
Use : 1/8 buggy
STS Racing Taiwan 21B
*** .28 & .21 use the same Carburator!
Factory needle setting
HSN 2T out
LSN 3T out
Running needle setting
HSN 1.5 to 2T out (others will say u running lean but ignore them!)
LSN 3 to 4T out (even sometimes 5T … this carb like to be rich at LSN)
Temperature Guideline
When the air temp. is lower than 5C,stay at home.
When the air temp. is 5~15C (41~59F) Keep the engine temp around 80C(176F)
When the air temp. is 15~25C(59~77F) Keep the engine temp around 100C(212F)
When the air temp. is 25~35C (77~95F) Keep the engine temp around 120C(248F)
When the air temp. is more than 35C (95F) Keep the engine temp around 140C(284F)
If your engine works just fine and you feel the power is enough,you don’t need to worry about the shim’s setting. All STS engine shimmed for 30% nitro,if you are running 20% or 15%,you may need to remove some shims for getting the most power.
Pullstart problem
This is what Dino said in the sts .28 rctech forum regarding how to pullstart.
Page 7, post #209.
We talk about the bleeding blisters first!
when you operate the pull-start system,there are some tips.
1)Before you start the engine,pull the line out fully. Then you know the total length of the line. Don’t over pull it out! With a strong arm you will damage the pull-start system.
2)Why you got some bleeding blisters is because your finger touch the heat sink(cooling head). So it is important that you don’t need to pull the starter from the start. You can pull the starter around 10cm out slowly,then just start to pull the starter between 10cm to 40cm distance continuous. Then your finger or hand should not touch the heat sink.
3)ok let us try to start the engine. Use your knee press on the tyres to fix your monster truck. Right hand pull the starter line out around 10cm. Left hand finger block the pipe then pull the starter line several times. Make sure the fuel be pumped into the carburetor. It not,that means the LSN is too lean or even cut the fuel supply at idle position already. Or the carb is close fully and no air bypass.
4)Put on the igniter and make sure the idle opened. Start to pull the starter between 10cm to 40cm distance continuous. After several time pulling,the engine should be started.
5)If it still not work,it most have some thing wrong. Stop to keep on trying. Try to find anything wrong. Check if the plug is fine and the igniter battery. Check if the fuel enter the carb already. Check if the idle is open enough. If you can see a lot of fuel flow out from the tuned pipe,that means the HSN is too rich.
6)After the engine started,don’t loosen your hand suddenly and let the starter line return very fast. That is not cool! It may snap the return spring. You should let the inner spring return the line slowly.
Above process is what I start mine D28M. Hope you understand my poor english. For you information..
Dino advice to newbie:
It is not because of the small gears,it is because our engine has too big compression. It may happen when your engine use not more than one gallon of fuel. When the first gallon,the compression is too big. Everytime you start the engine,you need to loosen the grow plug a little. About half turn is enough. Then try to start the engine. Once the engine is started,tighten the plug soon. I’m sorry because we want to produce a race level pull start engine,so we give you the race level piston/sleeve set. We want your engine lasting longer under serious situation. But it do make the engine hard to start no matter pull-start or roto-start. Remember to loosen the plug would help. We just don’t want to produce RTR level engine,it’s not our style. You can check your engine,when you remove the plug it is very smooth. Once the plug installed it is unbelievable tight! It is a standard of a race engine. Maybe we should give you more shims but a lot of people don’t know they need to remove shims after break-in….that’s why we don’t give you extra shims lately…but the gears issue pop-out…. Best Regards, Dino
Horsepower comparison:
check this link from my friend, Ryan of http://www.racernine.com/horsepower.html
comparing engines from HPI .28, RB TM7 .28, Infinity .28, Sirio 27S.
STS .28 got the most horsepower!!!!!!!! at a very reasonable price!!! How can u beat that!
Popularity: 22%
Posted in RC Engine, Rc News, STS | 1 Comment »
I love what he did with the crank and i just got to share them all to you in this blog. 
